The passing of Edward Sexton, an iconic name in bespoke tailoring, has left the entire tailoring world in mourning. While numerous journalists have admirably summarised his illustrious career, this article aims to delve into Edward Sexton’s influence on fashion and style for both men and women. Rather than an all-encompassing review, we’ll explore his impact and contributions that transcend the realm of traditional tailoring.
The Rebel of the Row
Savile Row, known for its limited annual production of full bespoke suits, usually hovers below 10,000 pieces. As revealed by the man himself, Edward Sexton led an in-house team of 8 artisans in 2019, crafting 8 full bespoke suits weekly. This exclusivity, born from time-intensive artisanal work, limits its influence and popularity. For centuries, Savile Row has been synonymous with attire for politicians, military personnel, royals, and successful businessmen. The dignified pride in their craftsmanship forms a distinct universe, separate from fashion, hardly seeking the attention of the general public, who might hesitate to invest a significant amount in a single garment. This reserved nature of the tailoring trade has shielded Savile Row from the winds of street fashion and trends, despite Savile Row being only steps away from SoHo, where the wildest style brews.
The narrative took a dramatic turn on Valentine’s Day in 1969, when two young fellows, Tommy Nutter (25) and Edward Sexton (26), disrupted the status quo. They opened the door of their tailoring house at 35a Savile Row (before them, no new tailoring house was opened on the Row for a whole century), making suits that are everything but conservative. “Nutter’s main innovation was to combine the faultless craftsmanship of Savile Row with the risqué street fashion being exhibited by the Mods on Carnaby Street”, commented Lance Richardson, the author of House of Nutter, the Rebel Tailor of Savile Row. If Tommy was the mind, Edward was the hand, the striking look of Nutter’s, designed by the visionary socialite Tommy Nutter and realised by the skilled hand of Edward Sexton’s, made the formidable duo the dresser of top stars with clientele from The Beatles to The Rolling Stones. Timothy Everest, who worked for Nutter for five years, once said: “Without Edward, you could not translate Tommy’s ideas”. The work of Sexton went immortal in 1969, as he cut the suits for three members of The Beatles on the cover of their eleventh studio album Abbey Road. Their success resonated widely, kindling a desire among young people for that signature swinging look through tailored garments. Even the traditional bespoke clients would ask their tailor to cut the lapel wider to accommodate the evolving style.
