Each time I visit a Loro Piana new collection showcase, feeling the texture of the fabrics up close, running my hands over the fur-like softness of a shearling coat, and studying the brand’s latest unimaginable innovations in cashmere, it feels like a meditative interlude amid the whirlwind of Fashion Week’s fleeting runways.
The Fall/Winter 2025-26 men’s and women’s collection is a poetic ode to the vastness of nature, blending the raw essence of primal landscapes with the brand’s masterful craftsmanship. This season’s unveiling took place at the Milan headquarters, where I once again spoke with Alessandra Varianini, the women’s design director. She walked me through the journey of inspiration—from the Argentine grasslands to the Scottish Highlands, the birthplaces of Loro Piana’s precious fibers—and shared the ingenuity behind the team’s process, from fabric development to silhouette realization. The resulting collection is both a nod to the natural and traditional roots of “The Way We Were” and a confident expression of “If You Know, You Know.”
Landscapes of Heritage
The collection draws its soul from the lands that have nurtured Loro Piana’s textile legacy: the expansive ranches of Argentina, the wilds of New Zealand, the wool fields of Australia, and the mist-shrouded Scottish Highlands. Colours ranging from caramel brown, burgundy, navy blue, to creamy beige mirror these landscapes’ silhouettes.
Alessandra noted, “This season, many of the clothes are made for the outdoors.” Equestrian themes run throughout, with Argentine gaucho-inspired jackets, jodhpurs, and waterproof waxed corduroy coats blending cashmere and cotton, paying homage to the culture of horsemanship. Craftsmanship shines in details—white cashmere floral appliqués adorn jackets, while intricate Cornely chain-stitch embroidery, crafted on antique looms, graces dresses with an exotic flair and exceptional artistry. Jacquard and intarsia techniques lend depth to cashmere sweaters.
Notably, this season’s womenswear exudes a bold, spirited edge, with many designs echoing the menswear in a seamless continuity. Reflecting the brand’s tailoring tradition, masculine elements weave into the women’s line—flowing hunting jackets, double-pleated trousers, even braces and bow ties. It’s easy to picture Katharine Hepburn stepping into these pieces with her signature poise.
Material and Craft: The Royal Lightness
Loro Piana’s unrivaled domain has always been its proprietary mastery of luxurious fabrics, and this season, the spotlight falls on the newly launched Royal Lightness. This yarn, a blend of merino wool and mulberry silk, weaves into featherlight knits, while a double-faced fabric—merging silk organzine with cashmere at just 350 grams per meter—undergoes tumbling, brushing, and hand-stitching to reflect subtle sheen. Alessandra revealed that it took the team two years of relentless experimentation to perfect this fabric for coats and outerwear, achieving an extreme lightness without sacrificing warmth.
