At the age of 24, Kartik Kumra has swiftly elevated Kartik Research onto the international fashion stage in under three years. In 2023, he made history as the first Indian designer showcased on the official Paris Fashion Week menswear calendar. By June 2024, the brand celebrated its debut physical runway show in Paris and forged retail alliances with renowned outlets such as Selfridges, Bloomingdale’s, and Dover Street Market, alongside leading online menswear platforms like SSENSE, MR PORTER, and END CLOTHING. These achievements not only mark the brand’s rapid rise but also spotlight the intricate challenge Kumra faces: preserving cultural authenticity while navigating the demands of global commercialization.
For its Autumn/Winter 2025 (AW25) collection, Kartik Research diverges from conventional runway formats, embracing a photographic project titled AMDAVAD. This bold move reflects Kumra’s distinctive vision, leveraging clothing and visuals to probe the role of Indian cultural identity in an increasingly interconnected world. He recognizes the intricacies of crafting a brand rooted in cultural heritage, striving to harmonize romantic ideals with the practical realities of global expansion.
A Dual Approach: Craft and Design
The AW25 collection builds on two foundational elements that define Kartik Research:
Reinterpreting Traditional Craft for the Present
Following the SS25 collaboration with Converse—where hand-block printing from Rajasthan and jute weaving from a Delhi women’s cooperative were woven into sneaker designs—AW25 turns its lens to Ahmedabad’s everyday streetwear (locally known as Amdavad). A highlight is a reimagined flight jacket crafted from hand-dyed cotton-linen and adorned with intricate bead embroidery, fusing Indian artisanal traditions with modern silhouettes. Kumra emphasizes that traditional craftsmanship should seamlessly integrate into daily wear, not merely serve as ornamentation. Yet, as the brand scales globally, one might question whether this fusion always feels organic or occasionally veers toward stylistic flourish, particularly for audiences unfamiliar with its cultural roots.
Cross-Cultural Design Experiments
Inspired by Yohji Yamamoto’s deconstructed tailoring from the 1990s, AW25 reworks the layered forms of Indian pilgrimage robes into a modular suit design. This blend of ritualistic aesthetics and practical functionality expands on SS25’s pairing of pilgrim attire with sneakers, aiming to delve into cultural substance rather than superficial symbols. In a fashion world where cultural fusion is commonplace—evident in Dries Van Noten’s vibrant prints or Rei Kawakubo’s avant-garde shapes—Kartik Research’s approach prompts reflection: does it carve a truly distinctive niche, or does it resonate with familiar cross-cultural narratives?
