{"id":27764,"date":"2026-07-04T19:59:15","date_gmt":"2026-07-04T18:59:15","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.agneselect.com\/uncategorized\/summer_loafers\/"},"modified":"2026-07-04T21:18:32","modified_gmt":"2026-07-04T20:18:32","slug":"summer_loafers","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.agneselect.com\/en\/craftsmanship\/summer_loafers\/","title":{"rendered":"From the Cowshed to the White House: 8 Summer Loafers and the Millennia Behind Them"},"content":{"rendered":"\t\t
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The loafer traces back to the moccasin worn by Native Americans, and to this day\u2014from the century-old London bespoke house John Lobb to the quiet-luxury label The Row\u2014new versions keep appearing. It has come a very long way, and yet there seems to be nowhere it can’t go.<\/p>

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An American dad shuffles out for coffee in a pair; Jang Won-young wears them in the front row at Miu Miu. Come to think of it, the loafer goes further than that New Balance line about everyone from supermodels to dads wearing the same shoe. It doesn’t just cross gender, age, and class\u2014it crosses the hardest threshold in the culture of dress: occasion. Unlike the oxford, it drags no set of social codes and status rules behind it. The loafer has none of that. It’s the first good shoe a style-conscious broke student can afford, and the power statement under the feet of the Wolf of Wall Street; British aristocrats wear it to dinner, and the owner of the pizzeria wears it standing by the oven all day. As traditional handmade dress shoes\u2014heavy, too formal\u2014get quietly filtered out by Silicon Valley money and the well-dressed of Paris and Shanghai, the loafer slips, soft and unannounced, into every corner of daily life.<\/p>

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That freedom is actually strange. Because for most of human history, a shoe was never free\u2014it existed precisely to mark who you were and where you stood.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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Two Roads for a Shoe\n<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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The oldest impulse to make a shoe came from the ground itself. A leather shoe unearthed in 2008 from the Areni-1 cave in Armenia has been carbon-dated to roughly 3500 BC\u2014a thousand years older than the Great Pyramid of Giza, four hundred older than Stonehenge. Cut from a single piece of cowhide, shaped to the foot and stitched closed front and back, it was, in essence, one piece of leather wrapped around one foot. What’s striking is that this oldest known leather shoe is already, in its construction, remarkably close to the moccasin that came later.<\/p>

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From that piece of leather, the history of the shoe forked into two roads. One went upward, becoming a language of power. In ancient Egypt, a relief in the Cairo Museum shows the pharaoh Narmer followed by a sandal-bearer; the shoe was a symbol of sovereignty. That road ran all the way to its medieval extreme\u2014the notorious poulaine, marked by its absurdly pointed toe, sometimes so long it had to be tied up to the knee to allow walking at all. It reached a point of such absurdity that medieval England actually passed laws limiting how long a shoe’s toe could be. A shoe that required legislation to govern how much space it was allowed to occupy\u2014this was the disciplining of the shoe by occasion and status, pushed to its peak.<\/p>

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The other road went inward. While Europe’s toes were still competing over length, the Native peoples of North America had taken the shoe in the opposite direction\u2014not extending outward, but fitting inward. The moccasin is a soft, heelless leather shoe: the sole rises up from underfoot to wrap the toes, joined across the instep by a puckered seam around a U-shaped piece of leather\u2014the very structural template of the later loafer. It’s worth drawing a distinction here: the moccasin is a construction<\/em>, the loafer a type<\/em>. The former supplies the logic of wrapping the foot; the latter adds, on top of that logic, a separate heel and a crisper frame. The soft-soled moccasin let the wearer feel the ground underfoot, making it ideal for walking over forest lichen and pine needles.<\/p>

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The word “moccasin” comes from the Powhatan Algonquian makasin<\/em>, meaning simply “shoe.” The dress historian Jonathan Walford, in The Berg Companion to Fashion<\/em>, notes that this logic of wrapping the foot in a single piece of leather wasn’t unique to North America; traces of it appear in ancient Northern Europe too, from the Balkans to the Baltic in folk dress. It was never a display of status, but an agreement between the foot and the earth.<\/p>

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And the loafer is exactly where these two roads finally meet.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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From the Cowshed to the White House\n<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t
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The story unfolds in two places at almost the same moment, around 1926. That year, the Norwegian shoemaker Nils Tveranger, of the village of Aurland, filed a patent for his new slip-on. He had gone to Boston to learn the trade at thirteen, bringing back the distinctive puckered-seam technique of the Iroquois moccasin; in 1908 he blended it with the traditional shoes of local fishermen to make the first Aurland shoe, and in 1926 patented this laceless, low-heeled refined version. In London that same year, the shoemaker Raymond Lewis Wildsmith took a commission\u2014to make the then Duke of York (later George VI) a country shoe he could “loaf around” in after a day’s hunting. Whether the two men ever heard of each other is impossible to say; we know only that British aristocrats were keen on salmon fishing in Norway, so carrying Tveranger’s shoe home is not far-fetched. In any case, the London pair came to be called the Wildsmith Loafer\u2014Britain’s first. The moccasin’s “inward” road had put on the language of the modern leather shoe.<\/p>

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Across the Atlantic, the story took its populist turn. In the 1930s, an Esquire<\/em> feature put photographs of Norwegian farmers wearing the shoe in cattle-loafing yards in front of American readers. In 1936, Maine’s G.H. Bass launched its own version, named the “Weejun”\u2014a contraction of “Norwegian”\u2014with a strap across the vamp and a diamond-shaped cutout at its center. That cutout began as decoration and became a ritual: students slipped a coin into it, supposedly as emergency phone money, though it was really more a statement of identity. The name “penny loafer” was born, and quickly eclipsed the original brand name. By the 1950s the shoe had stepped onto the fashion stage\u2014John F. Kennedy was often seen in a pair of penny loafers, cementing the shoe’s association with youth and style.<\/p>

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The moment the loafer truly picked up its “coat of power” came in 1953, in Florence. Aldo Gucci, noticing American collegiate boys’ obsession with Bass Weejuns, released a more refined version of his own\u2014lightweight black calf, an almond toe, and a gold horsebit replacing the American strap and tassel, a nod to the family’s saddlery business. That single step rewrote the loafer from a campus symbol into a class symbol. By the 1970s it was being called the uniform of Wall Street.<\/p>

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Having come full circle, the loafer holds two inheritances at once: the bodily ease the moccasin gave it, and the weight of status handed down by the road of the poulaine and the horsebit. But it wears the latter very lightly\u2014and that is precisely what makes it right for summer: relaxed enough to go with shorts, linen, bare feet; refined enough to know it descends from both a royal house shoe and a Wall Street uniform, yet never needing to prove it. It doesn’t mind the occasion, because it is itself the product of two occasions shaking hands.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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The Loafer Against the Current\n<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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Over the past few decades, the settings in which a proper dress shoe belongs have narrowed, reluctantly but steadily. The leather shoes fashion brands turn out now mostly use a single glued rubber sole, a fundamentally different thing from traditional Goodyear-welt construction in both lifespan and support. A Goodyear-welted sole can be replaced; a good pair lasts a decade or more. Once a glued sole wears through, the whole shoe is finished.<\/p>

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But traditional Goodyear-welted handmade shoes come with real barriers too: they’re expensive, and the stacked layers of leather sole and midsole make them heavy for people used to traveling light. It’s within exactly this tension that several traditional makers have adapted with some agility\u2014Edward Green, John Lobb and others have introduced unlined models to cut upper weight, while many loafers have switched to lightweight rubber soles, bending toward contemporary wear without giving up the core of the craft. The Tod’s Gommino driving shoe, launched in the late 1970s, made its name and fortune on precisely this with-the-times spirit. This two-sidedness\u2014relaxed yet refined\u2014is what lets the loafer move against the current: substantial enough to carry a charity gala, light enough at the same time to go with a pair of linen shorts.<\/p>

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Here are eight summer loafers I think are worth buying.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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1 \u2014 J.M. Weston 180<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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The 180 loafer was born in 1946\u2014it turns eighty this year\u2014and is still made entirely by hand at the workshop in Limoges, France, each pair passing through the 180 steps that give it its name. Its signatures live in two details: the seagull-shaped penny strap across the vamp, and the clean, edge-to-edge joined round toe. Goodyear construction means it can be resoled again and again; the outsole and heel leather come from Bastin & Fils, a French tannery committed to ultra-slow vegetable tanning. Overseeing the house’s image in recent years is a curator by background, artistic director Olivier Saillard: rather than overturning the 180’s frame, he retells it\u2014from an early single-color blue in homage to Yves Klein, to denim uppers, to unexpected color-blocking that has made a 1946 classic worth talking about again. This pair comes from the 180’s Upcycled line: a navy nubuck body, a front in a paler blue as if diluted by seawater, closed off by a penny strap in cream panna<\/em> grained calf. None of the three colors shouts, yet across a single shoe they complete a gradient from deep to pale to blank space.<\/p>

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It suits the kind of summer outfit where you want everything to settle down and leave just one point of brightness: the deep blue anchors things, paired with a rolled-up off-white linen or khaki shorts, worn barefoot\u2014the shoe becomes the lightest, and most talkative, note of the whole look. It has the wit of color-blocking without the noise. It holds up in formal settings and looks entirely at ease on a weekend. The eighty-year-old frame hasn’t changed; only the way it speaks has.<\/p>

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Price: \u20ac780 | Shop: eu.jmweston.com<\/a><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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2 \u2014 Sebago Portland Artisan OX\uff08Castagna\uff09<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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If Weston is the loafer’s “upward” branch, Sebago is its “seaward” cousin. Sebago\u2014also eighty this year\u2014is an old name in American boat shoes; strictly speaking this Portland Artisan isn’t a penny loafer at all but a boat shoe, and the squared lacing running around its sides is the birthmark of its origins on deck. But it shares the same moccasin frame as the loafer: a single piece of leather wrapping the instep, the hand-stitched apron seam plainly visible. This pair comes from Sebago’s Artisan handmade line, remaking the brand’s classic Portland last in soft Italian suede, and the key is that the whole shoe is unlined\u2014no liner means a thinner, softer upper, handing the foot almost directly to a layer of suede and a non-slip rubber sole. Castagna is that warm chestnut brown that only gets better with wear.<\/p>

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Its natural habitat is clear: bare feet, rolled-up hems, a boardwalk by the sea, or simply a summer day in the city when you’d rather skip socks. It works with pale shorts, faded denim, loose cotton-linen trousers. Boat shoes and loafers were always close relatives, and this is the easiest of the family to throw on\u2014summer wear that takes essentially no thought.<\/p>

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Price: \u20ac220 | Shop: sebago.com<\/a><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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3 \u2014 Baudoin & Lange Sagan Classic\uff08Black Madras Silk\uff09<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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Baudoin & Lange is a London-founded label that has stirred real enthusiasm among menswear devotees since its start. Its focus is a lightweight take on the “Belgian loafer” tradition\u2014the Belgian loafer being defined by its extreme softness, absence of lining, and sock-like feel on the foot. The signature Sagan shape is hand-lasted and needs almost no breaking in, because with no liner the leather simply molds to the foot over time; the shoes are handmade in Italy. The Sagan comes in many leather versions, but this one is special for its upper: black silk\u2014loom-woven by hand, carrying a natural, irregular texture and a subtle gradient from light to dark, giving it more body and structure than ordinary smooth silk. Leather sole, flat heel, slip-on. Among all the leather Sagans, the silk version is the most classic and the most distinctive choice. This pair belongs to the limited Riviera summer series, an edition of 25.<\/p>

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The silk upper means this isn’t a shoe for wind and sun; it’s better suited to the evening\u2014paired with dark linen or a light dress trouser, worn barefoot, walking onto a seaside terrace or into an evening that calls for a little polish. The black keeps it formal enough; the sheen of the silk keeps it from ever looking stiff.<\/p>

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Price: \u20ac510 | Shop: baudoinlange.com<\/a><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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4 \u2014 John Lobb Lopez\uff08Dark Brown Suede, Contrasted Stitching\uff09<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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Lopez is John Lobb’s signature loafer, born in 1950 and reinterpreted season after season. Marked by its hand-stitched apron and elegant saddle, it carries a classic silhouette and top-tier craftsmanship across generations. This pair uses contrasted stitching, letting the handwork stand out visibly\u2014next to a tonal version, it’s the more casual and more fashionable choice. The sole is the house’s own Flexi Rasp, built for instant comfort and fair-weather versatility, while the slim bevelled waist and leather sole edge keep the whole shoe’s elegant posture intact.<\/p>

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Dark brown suede is one of the most versatile options in the whole list, holding its own in both dressy and casual registers: with dark trousers, hems rolled to bare the ankle, in that sockless Italian ease; with khakis or denim, no trouble at all. Worn barefoot in summer, suede’s matte surface breathes better than polished leather and minds the occasion even less.<\/p>

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Price: \u20ac1,590 | Shop: johnlobb.com<\/a><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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5 \u2014 Edward Green Montpellier Unlined\uff08Raw Umber Suede\uff09<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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Edward Green, founded in Northampton in 1890, is among the finest names in English handmade footwear. The Montpellier is a saddle loafer built on the 184 last, which the house calls its classic penny loafer last. This is its unlined version\u2014following the Piccadilly and the Belgravia, the Montpellier too has been remade without a liner into a lighter profile, meant to suit the way men actually dress today. The upper is Raw Umber suede; Edward Green selects only the finest Italian suedes and uses only un-split skins so the suede keeps its shape and structure. Raw Umber is a nutty mid-tan that falls right into the neutral, earthy palette in favor now. The sole is oak-bark-tanned leather, tanned for nine months in a solution of oak, spruce, and mimosa barks.<\/p>

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It’s in the same class as the John Lobb Lopez\u2014the difference is that this one takes the “light” route, softer without a liner and better for summer. Raw Umber is nearly a go-anywhere color: with grey, khaki, off-white, or denim it never clashes, standing up to both dressy and casual wear. Barefoot or with invisible socks in summer, it’s the kind of shoe you can wear for years\u2014and one worth wearing for years.<\/p>

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Price: \u00a31,240 | Shop: edwardgreen.com<\/a><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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6 \u2014 Loro Piana Summer Walk\uff08Tan Braided Suede\uff09<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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The Summer Walk is Loro Piana’s most iconic shape, and the purest expression of “light” on this list. It belongs to the White Sole family the brand introduced in 2005\u2014a line born of the Loro Piana family’s love of sailing, with shoes originally designed for walking on a yacht’s deck: a translucent white rubber non-slip sole made specifically not to mark the wood. The upper is fine suede; this pair is the tan braided-suede version, the vamp stitched entirely by hand, an LP mark stamped on the right shoe, with a small space left inside the heel to write a name. The whole thing is built around one thing: extreme lightness and softness.<\/p>

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It’s a genuinely “no thinking required” summer shoe, though the price puts it on another tier. Its settings run from the literal yacht deck to summer travel, holidays, and everyday life in a seaside city. It’s good with shorts, linen trousers, rolled-up chinos, and best appreciated barefoot. The braided suede adds a layer of texture the smooth version doesn’t have, with a hand-worked substance up close. It doesn’t belong in formal settings, but among all the “relaxed” summer choices, it’s the most polished\u2014and the most luxurious.<\/p>

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Price: \u20ac1,200 | Shop: loropiana.com<\/a><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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7 \u2014 Alden 684 Full Strap Penny Loafer\uff08Color 8 Shell Cordovan\uff09<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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Alden is a long-established handmade shoemaker in New England, and this 684 is its full-strap penny loafer, made in the material it’s most famous for: Horween’s Color 8 shell cordovan. Shell cordovan is taken from a small, dense layer of leather in the horse’s hindquarters\u2014low in yield, slow to tan, and prized for being extremely hard-wearing, resisting the creases ordinary leather develops and instead building a warm luster over time. Color 8 is its most classic shade, a deep tone somewhere between dark brown, oxblood, and burgundy that shifts with the light. Built on the Aberdeen last, the shoe runs long and elegant, with a single leather sole, Goodyear construction, and a tempered steel shank set under the arch for support.<\/p>

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This is the most “American” pair on the list: the fundamentalist form of the penny loafer, and the legitimate bloodline of that whole Wall Street and Ivy League story. The depth and sheen of the shell cordovan make it a touch more formal than an ordinary suede loafer\u2014it works with dress trousers, denim, and khakis alike\u2014but its real charm only shows after a few years, as the cordovan grows glossier: a shoe that keeps a record of time. In summer it’s sharpest with invisible socks.<\/p>

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Price: $967 | Shop: aldenshop.com<\/a><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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8 \u2014 Timoth\u00e9e Paris Loafer BEAUNE\uff08White\uff09<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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Timoth\u00e9e Paris is a Parisian label with a shop by the Seine on the \u00cele Louviers. This BEAUNE is the most carefree pair on the list\u2014an upper in soft white pebbled leather, on a natural rubber sole, with waxed cotton laces, a full leather lining, and a 100% cotton travel pouch included. The brand’s own description of it is refreshingly plain: a shoe made to hold up to weather you didn’t see coming and days you walk more than you planned. It doesn’t lean on century-old craft or rare hides; what it sells is easy wear, easy care, and a clean white.<\/p>

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A white loafer is summer’s boldest note and the one that takes a little nerve\u2014but that’s exactly why it can instantly lift a dark outfit and brighten the whole look. It’s sharp with denim, khaki, or off-white linen, and especially at home in the bright light of the coast or the South of France. Pebbled leather hides dirt and scuffs better than smooth, making it one of the easier whites to live with. At \u20ac410, it’s the most accessible pair of the eight\u2014and still one with a point of view.<\/p>

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Price: \u20ac410 | Shop: timotheeparis.com<\/a><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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A single loafer turns up in the front row at Miu Miu and on the feet of the man running the corner pizza place. It crosses gender, age, and class\u2014and the hardest line in all of dress: occasion. 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