{"id":25887,"date":"2026-02-23T20:42:26","date_gmt":"2026-02-23T19:42:26","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.agneselect.com\/uncategorized\/2026-ss-couture\/"},"modified":"2026-07-12T14:52:14","modified_gmt":"2026-07-12T13:52:14","slug":"2026-ss-couture","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.agneselect.com\/en\/fashion\/2026-ss-couture\/","title":{"rendered":"26SS Couture Review: Screen Echoes, Folded Architectures, and Cultural Resilience"},"content":{"rendered":"\t\t
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Looking back at the Spring\u2013Summer 2026 haute couture season in Paris, the spotlight naturally fell on Matthieu Blazy\u2019s fairy\u2011tale debut at Chanel, Schiaparelli\u2019s emblematic high\u2011concept theatrics, and Gaurav Gupta\u2019s sculptural fantasies, each distinguished by an exceptional level of craft and originality. Yet beyond these headline\u2011grabbing collections, several houses offered compelling, highly personal visions that deserve closer attention.<\/p>

\u00a0<\/p>

This Agnes Select review turns its gaze to Celia Kritharioti, Georges Chakra, byFANG, and Juana Mart\u00edn, alongside the already well\u2011known Tamara Ralph. Through screen\u2011inspired staging, origami\u2011like constructions, and culturally charged symbols, these five designers advance powerful visual narratives and a nuanced approach to structure in contemporary couture.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Celia Kritharioti<\/figcaption>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/figure>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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Two Echoes of Cinematic Glamour: Celia Kritharioti & Georges Chakra<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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Celia Kritharioti, whose family house dates back to 1906 and is considered the oldest couture maison in Greece, made her official Paris debut this season as an invited member of the F\u00e9d\u00e9ration de la Haute Couture et de la Mode with a collection titled\u00a0Old Hollywood avant\u2011premi\u00e8re<\/em>. Staged at Pavillon Cambon, the show unfolded against deep black velvet curtains and expanses of white chiffon, transforming the venue into a cinema\u2011like premiere where, as the notes propose, \u201ccinema is the architecture of dreams.\u201d<\/p>

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At the heart of the collection lies cinematic glamour rendered through volume and surface. Taffeta, silk satin, and organza swell into almost gravity\u2011defying silhouettes, while cut\u2011feather fringes, floral lace incrustations, and chains of crystals drift around the body like smoke, creating starlet\u2011worthy outlines that remain surprisingly soft. The finale bride, cocooned in a monumental white tulle ball gown covered in embroidered floral lace, appears like a ballerina inside a music box, pushing the Old Hollywood fantasy to its most poetic extreme and showcasing the intense handiwork of the maison\u2019s own workrooms and its Parisian embroidery and feather ateliers.<\/p>

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\u00a0<\/p>

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If Kritharioti revisits Hollywood\u2019s extroverted glamour, Lebanese couturier Georges Chakra channels a cooler, more controlled cinematic mood drawn from black\u2011and\u2011white film. His Spring\u2013Summer 2026 haute couture collection, often described as \u201cstructure in motion,\u201d starts from 1940s screen\u2011sirens and sharpens them into sculpted bodices and coats with armour\u2011like corsetry and geometric seaming. Working mainly in powder pink, ivory, and pale gold, punctuated with touches of lilac and apricot, he softens the rigor of his tailoring with a film\u2011grain haze of colour, compressing the tension between hardness and fluidity into every seam.\u200b<\/span><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Rational Folded Architectures: Tamara Ralph & byFANG<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t
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At Pavillon Cambon, Tamara Ralph presented\u00a0La Lumi\u00e8re Dor\u00e9e<\/em>\u00a0(\u201cThe Golden Light\u201d), a Spring\u2013Summer 2026 haute couture collection she frames as a milestone three years into her eponymous house. Centred on the idea of light made tangible, and enriched by Asian references and Art Deco geometry, the collection sharpens her signature silhouettes through origami\u2011like pleats and fan\u2011shaped structures, treating light as a building material rather than a mere spotlight on the garments.<\/p>

\u00a0<\/p>

Several key looks feature fragments of mother\u2011of\u2011pearl assembled into rigid breastplates and cinched waistpieces, forming an almost armoured upper body that then fans out into radiating corsets and skirts, projecting a commanding, protective energy. Elsewhere, metallic plumes, peacock\u2011inspired goldwork, and trailing trains continue her \u201cleading\u2011lady\u201d red\u2011carpet language\u2014broad shoulders, strong hips, elongated hems\u2014clearly reserving the role of protagonist for the wearer.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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By contrast, byFANG\u2014the Franco\u2011Chinese label founded between Paris and Shanghai by designer Fang Yang and partner Gr\u00e9goire Caillol\u2014treats folding not as seasonal ornament but as the very foundation of the house. Drawing on her childhood fascination with Chinese paper\u2011folding, or\u00a0zhezhi<\/em>, Fang has developed a couture vocabulary rooted in transformation, precision, and balance, summarized in the house\u2019s statement that \u201cfolding is not decorative but architectural.\u201d<\/p>

\u200b<\/span><\/p>

In the Spring\u2013Summer 2026 collection, fabric moves from flatness to form through a deliberate sequence of tensions and releases, producing shapes that are at once controlled and fluid. Side panels, curved skirts, and sculpted shoulders resemble half\u2011opened architectural models: quiet and contained when still, yet unfolding with each step. The palette introduces light blue into the brand\u2019s essential black, white, and red, adding a cool luminosity that underlines the structural clarity while sustaining the maison\u2019s \u201cquiet power.\u201d<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Following Tamara Ralph and byFANG, the season\u2019s engagement with culture moves from questions of form and volume toward more explicit expressions of identity and belonging. Fang Yang folds Chinese paper\u2011craft and a life lived between Paris and Shanghai into calm, rational structures, while Juana Mart\u00edn, born in C\u00f3rdoba, Spain, treats Andalusian and Gitano heritage as a visceral rhythm in the body, using stark black\u2011and\u2011white contrasts and symbolic motifs to build a far more fiery emotional space. One is a cool, measured \u201cfolded architecture,\u201d the other a blazing \u201ccultural omen\u201d\u2014together they mark two of the season\u2019s most personal couture trajectories.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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The Primal Force of Symbols: Juana Mart\u00edn\u2019s \u201cPresagio\u201d<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t
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As the first Spanish woman invited into the official haute couture calendar by the F\u00e9d\u00e9ration de la Haute Couture et de la Mode, Juana Mart\u00edn has, over several seasons, built a distinctive language anchored in Andalusian and Gitano culture. Her work repeatedly returns to sharp black\u2011and\u2011white contrasts, sculpted lace, and metallic embellishment to explore the tension between light and shadow, stillness and movement, in a Southern context.<\/p>

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Her latest collection,\u00a0Presagio<\/em>\u00a0(\u201cOmen\u201d), extends this narrative by casting the horse as the soul of the story\u2014an ancient sign of war and transformation, and a symbol of journeys yet to unfold. This idea appears in materials that inhabit a space between skin, armour, and wind: firm leather and metal elements trace equine and protective contours, while long veils and chiffon trains swing behind the body like a horse\u2019s tail, sketching invisible whip\u2011lines in the air. Mart\u00edn continues her signature use of metallic florals and raised embroidery, turning flowers, vines, and devotional motifs into plates of protection that sit close to the body, so that each look feels at once like ceremonial armour and a talisman of courage. In the show notes, each garment is described as \u201ca sign of victory, resilience, and forward momentum,\u201d a concentrated expression of Andalusian endurance on the couture stage.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"Juana\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t
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Taken together, these five collections\u2014refracting cinematic glamour, folded geometry, and culture\u2011laden symbols\u2014trace a clear direction for haute couture today. Spring\u2013Summer 2026 suggests that couture\u2019s centre of gravity is shifting: not away from craft, but deeper into structure, narrative, and the emotional charge garments can carry. Through precise cutting and lucid storytelling, these designers demonstrate how couture can move from outward display toward an architecture of inner strength.<\/p><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>

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Spring\u2013Summer 2026 suggests that couture\u2019s centre of gravity is shifting: not away from craft, but deeper into structure, narrative, and the emotional charge garments can carry. <\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":25830,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"pmpro_default_level":"","_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_feature_clip_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false},"categories":[81],"tags":[],"issue":[868],"ag_free":[],"class_list":["post-25887","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-fashion","issue-archive","pmpro-has-access"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\n26SS Couture Review: Screen Echoes, Folded Architectures, 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Agnes Select choose the brand to work with judiciously \u2013 Only brands with genuine craftsmanship in their product and good potential to appeal to our audience\u2019s sense and taste will be chosen to work with.","email":"agnes@agneselect.com","telephone":"0603827091","legalName":"Agnes Select","foundingDate":"2018-06-20"},{"@type":"Person","@id":"https:\/\/www.agneselect.com\/en\/#\/schema\/person\/329b579044b4e70d6bd13ba27e5e5ce7","name":"Agnes GE","image":{"@type":"ImageObject","inLanguage":"en-US","@id":"https:\/\/secure.gravatar.com\/avatar\/e7aa24af79a2bae4d4c519e8d87305a4e7e24e5e72d2ad2a420a1f2c80b1d227?s=96&d=mm&r=g","url":"https:\/\/secure.gravatar.com\/avatar\/e7aa24af79a2bae4d4c519e8d87305a4e7e24e5e72d2ad2a420a1f2c80b1d227?s=96&d=mm&r=g","contentUrl":"https:\/\/secure.gravatar.com\/avatar\/e7aa24af79a2bae4d4c519e8d87305a4e7e24e5e72d2ad2a420a1f2c80b1d227?s=96&d=mm&r=g","caption":"Agnes GE"},"description":"Founder & Editor","sameAs":["https:\/\/www.agneselect.com"]}]}},"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/www.agneselect.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/02\/Celia-Kritharioti-02.jpg","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.agneselect.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/25887","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.agneselect.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.agneselect.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.agneselect.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.agneselect.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=25887"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.agneselect.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/25887\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.agneselect.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/25830"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.agneselect.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=25887"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.agneselect.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=25887"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.agneselect.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=25887"},{"taxonomy":"issue","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.agneselect.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/issue?post=25887"},{"taxonomy":"ag_free","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.agneselect.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/ag_free?post=25887"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}