On April 28th, F.P. Journe announced the 2020 novelties on its Instagram and official site. Besides the widely discussed new Chronomètre à Résonance, they’ve also released a new version of Quantième Perpétuel (QP), with blue guilloché silver dial or white guilloché silver dial in matching gold numerals.
The new QP is powered by the 1300.3 calibre, same as the original Quantième Pérpetuel (released in 2013), that can deliver up to 160 hours of power, of which 120 hrs of chronometric performance are calibrated onto the dial.
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The F.P.Journe Octa Quantième Perpétuel was designed to be extremely quick to set, and very simple to read. What someone sees on the dial however is the result of an incredibly complex layout beneath it. Caliber 1300.3 QP is made up of 340 components (uncased) that are delicately assembled together resulting in a total movement height of only 5.20 mm. As with all the models in the Octa Collection, the automatic movement delivers up to 120 hours of chronometric performance from a single barrel. The Perpetual Calendar complication automatically accounts for all months with 28, 29, 30, and 31 days, even indicating the leap year cycle on the dial. #fpjourne #fpjourneofficial #quantiemeperpetual #perpetualcalendar #octa #watchmaking #horology #watches
There are two particular things about the F.P. Journe’s QP: the ease of use, and the aesthetically balanced legibility.
Usually, the adjustment process of conventional perpetual calendars is skill-demanding and often evolves the use of a pin tool. Mr Journe invented an instantaneous jumping perpetual calendar mechanism so that the QP can be easily adjusted via the crown, and the month can be quickly set via a small lever hidden beneath the watch lug at 1 o’clock.
In terms of the dial design, the new QP further improved its legibility:
Adding the solid-gold frames around the upper and lower apertures that display the day, month, and date; Meanwhile, the olive-shaped inner circle is now decorated with a clous de Paris engine-turned pattern, which adds a sense of multi-dimensions and exquisiteness to the dial compare with the initially rather flat design.
Notably, the controversial round-shaped steel ring with four small screws are removed from the new version of QP. I’ve heard watch connoisseurs complaining about the steel ring as “out of place”, or being “odd”. Primarily because of that design, the original Octa Quantième Pérpetuel is a rather polarised model in the collections –Some people loved it, and others were sceptical about it. Personally, I was enchanted by the romanticism and unique aesthetic from the original QP. While in the new version, you have a further refined and matured aesthetic that is more concise and masculine to the eye.
The numerals on the new QP are crafted from 18k white gold by Les Cadraniers de Genève (F.P. Journe’s own dial maker). After been hand finished, the artisans will be placing the pin on the back of every numeral into the tiny holes on the dial, which is an act of patience. The numeral 3 and 9 on the new QP are still in the smallest size among the hours. But the size gradients disappeared: On the original QP you can see the numerals gradually shrink and grow in accordance with the oval shape in the dial centre. Now the size of the numerals other than 3 and 9 are all identical, perhaps to achieve a more concise look.
Besides, the matte blue colour of the dial is also considered a special treat by many collectors, as it has only been seen on special editions previously.
18K 6N Gold case
Diameter: 40 or 42 mm
Overall height: 11 mm
Dial: blue guilloché Silver with 18K 6N Gold numerals
Hands: 5N gilt Steel
Automatic Calibre FPJ 1300-3 in 18K rose gold (4N)
Unidirectional automatic winding
Off-centre 22K gold guilloché winding rotor
Wind speed: 274 anti-clockwise rotations per 24 hours