『阴影的聚集』 Comme des Garçons 2019 Fall

在前一篇文章 Rei Kawakubo的Comme des Garçons — 從『不做衣服』到『向內探尋』的探讨和回顾之后,我们终于能好好观看,或重新审视 Comme des Garçons 2019 秋冬的设计系列了。

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A Gathering of Shadows

A gathering of shadows / 阴影的聚集

这是Kawakubo给出的本季设计主题。

附带一句描述:

Many small shadows come together to make one powerful thing. / 许多小的阴影聚集起来,产生一个强大的东西。

Comme des Garçons本季走秀的背景音乐来自与伦敦艺术家兼DJ Parma Ham的合作,开场时略微引人焦虑的节奏伴随着女声吟唱。

这很快被一种沉重的充满军国主义机械感的声音取代,伴随着低沉的男声音浪,模特穿着橡胶塑造的黑色盔甲走了出来。

皮质的巨大的死神尖帽,状似中世纪战盔的帽饰和条状披甲,一件皮马甲上镶着镀金挂钩和门闩,前后都有孔洞的红色苏格兰格纹裙在行走中抖动着风口。

But who were these people—a sinister cult reveling in the fruits of militaristic and environmental destruction, awarding themselves medals of brass coat hooks, gilt cherubs, and door latches? 但这些人是谁 -- 一个狂热的邪教,陶醉在军国主义和环境破坏的果实中,为自己颁发铜衣钩,镀金小天使和门闩的奖章?

Sarah Mower

在一声炮弹爆炸的轰鸣后,孩童唱起英国圣公会儿童赞美诗“All Things Bright and Beautiful”,伴随着身穿黄色格纹裙(庞克经典元素)头戴死神尖角帽的模特走出来。那件饰以褶边的格纹裙上可以辨认出几种不同的印花——Rei Kawakubo自己的侧身漫画像,死神的脸孔,闭着眼的波波头女孩眼皮上写着No War字样… …

随后歌声再次被战地轰隆的噪声和冰冷的新闻声所取代,一件让人想起炸弹袭击后滚滚黑烟的絮状披风走过。尖叫和口号呐喊声几乎等等干扰性的噪音伴随下黑暗继续以服装的形式出现。

She reads the news; she knows what’s happening 她看新闻;她知道世界正在发生的事情

Adrian Joffe

这已充分解释了本季我们所看到的一切。那种深切的不安感和沉重的黑暗情绪是Kawakubo对正在发生的战争,政治不安定因素,军国主义倾向,环境破坏,人权危机等等的内化表达。

的确,拥有年入超2亿8千万美元的Comme des Garçons帝国,以及零售脚步遍及伦敦,纽约,东京,新加坡,洛杉矶等全球超级城市的Dover Street Market,Rei Kawakubo对许多现实问题的了解可能比许多人想象的更加深入。虽然她出了名的沉默和厌恶解释,不过热衷发表意见者往往未必是真正关心问题的人。

仰望光明

然而,尽管空气中充满了沉重,但这场表演以一种意想不到的希望结束了。黑暗中,模特们手牵着手围成圆圈,向上凝视着顶部的亮光,似乎是某种宗教驱魔的仪式一样。

Testimonies

在最后,关于Comme des Garçons 2019 秋冬,  AGNES’ SELECT 精选三位资深时装记者对本场秀的评论作为结尾:

Osman Ahmed:

但这不仅仅是对政治和文化悲伤状态的另一种忧郁思考。这里传达了一种非常极端的威胁:战争,破坏,死亡。对全世界许多人来说,每一个日益恶化的政治形势都不仅是理论上的恐惧,它们都有非常真实的可能性。

So it was dark, the kind of unbridled darkness that fashion designers very rarely lean so deeply into……But this wasn’t just another melancholic musing on the sad state of politics and ……There was the threat of something very extreme here: war, destruction, death. At the heart of every worsening political situation, these are more than just theoretical fears, they are very real possibilities for so many people around the world.

Bridget Foley:

绝对令人不安。但是,时尚一直存在它的阴暗面,这往往能造就惊艳的服饰… … 事实上,(这场秀中的)有些作品甚至可以说是漂亮的… … 但漂亮和迷人并不是重点所在,似乎川久保从各种阴影中融合出的唯一有力的东西就是无情的黑暗。

Unsettling, absolutely. But then, fashion has long had its dark side, often resulting in impressive clothes…… In fact, some pieces could even be called pretty……But pretty and charming were hardly the intended message, and the only powerful thing that seemed to have coalesced from Kawakubo’s various shadows was that unrelenting darkness.

Sarah Mower:

尽管如此,川久保的信息可能并非全是绝望和谴责。她本季的系列「阴影的聚集」有第二条注解——“许多小阴影聚集在一起形成一个强大的东西。”当然,这是一个双刃剑的陈述,表明了人类对善,恶的潜力… … 无论哪种方式,它都是来自时尚界伟大先知之一的警钟,现在是时候站起出来贡献力量,而不是把目光移开。

Still, Kawakubo’s message was perhaps not all despair and condemnation. There was a second clause to her gathering of the shadows collection title. “Many small shadows come together to make one powerful thing.” Of course, that is a double-edged statement, indicating the human potential for good, as well as for evil… …  Either way, it was a wake-up call from one of fashion’s great seers that it’s time to stand up and be counted, not to look away.

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A.G

Founder & Editor of AGNES' SELECT
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